Frame up 2x4s to fit glass. Back is half-inch plywood. I predrilled and screwed the frame together, then screwed it to the plywood from the back. After that, I cut the excess off the sides leaving a narrow lip for mounting to the house. We brought it inside at that point, and caulked around the inside bottom edge with black 100 percent silicone.	Foam is half-inch on sides, inch-and-a-half on bottom. I used a jigsaw to cut the foam which worked well, but it did make little staticky balls that were hard to vaccuum up. I tried to hide all the raw edges, and leave the smooth factory edge exposed. Short sides were fitted first, long sides are two pieces so they can be jammed together for a tight fit. Bottom had overlapping edges so I could tent them up and press them together, making everything tight.	Press it together, hope it doesn't pop!
Cut the metal to size as close as you can!	Base is done. I don't know if caulking at this stage is needed, but we did it just to be safe.	The overlapped styrofoam at the bottom created a ridge. My baffle's too high, it would hit the glass! Some sculpting on the bottom was needed for the top to be flat. I used a jigsaw and plane, and that took a while.
Put all my baffles together. Drilled with a small bit all the way through, then countersinked the holes with a 3/8 inch bit. Countersinking had to be somewhat accurate, as the screw needs to end up biting into the back plywood well.	Baffles are now screwed into place. The holes for the vents will be cut into the back later. In this application, we'll have them both on the right, at bottom and top. Use an even number of baffles if you want them to come out on opposite sides.	It's hard to countersink the baffles exactly so you get maximum hold into the plywood. When screwing them down, the styrofoam compresses a bit and you overshoot. This isn't such a bad thing, as we know we have them mounted very solid. These gold-colored screws were very hard to cut. If you place the hacksaw in the groove between the threads, you can get a good cut. A grinder would have been easier, though.
Bending mixer stock from scraps flashing. I'm glad we used aluminum as this would have been tough with steel. Here I'm making a ridge every four inches.	Here I've mounted the mixers. These create turbulence in as the air passes through the collector. Everything on the inside will be painted flat black, and the flashing on bottom will heat up. Air passing over it will be heated, so the turbulence will help to better saturate the air with warmth.	The first stage is done. I double-caulked the outside. If you know exactly where the vent holes will line up, this would be a good time to cut them -- unfortunately we're not exactly sure where all the stud material is in the wall we're mounting to so we'll do that when we're ready to mount. We'll be putting foam weatherstripping on the frame and on top of the baffles, then mounting the glass with steel clips on top. Our glass is very heavy, so we'll probably put this back up first then mount the glass.
Here I've applied weatherstripping around the edges and on top of the baffles. It's black, I peeled the paper off the top before I put them up. The brackets at bottom are to help hold the glass up when we first put it on -- more padded brackets will be added.	Being supervised while cutting the vinyl siding. Found that straight shears didn't work well, so I picked up some offset ones.	Now that the vinyl is cut, I took Reflectix tape to seal the seams and dings in the foam insulation that was already on the house. Can't understand why people would go through the expense of insulating without sealing the seams!
Panel frame mounted using screws and washers. I don't intend to leave the board on the wall at the bottom, it was just a level surface to rest it on while we hoisted it up. At the top, the vinyl was cut away high on purpose, as I'll make a little roof out of flashing material when I get around to it.	We lined the inlet and outlet holes with radiant barrier (reinforced foil), and used small pieces of Reflectix tape to seal it to the wall and the seams. Much simpler than trying to make a metal duct.	Outlet was $66 from Airflow technologies. It has two fans, a thermostat control, and three fan speeds. Definitely quick to set up, and looks nice (at least it will when I put some latches on it instead of painter's tape).
With the glass on, went around the outside putting on angle brackets that had a little weatherstripping for padding. Sometime I hope to find a better-looking method. Used a lot of black caulking around the seal of the window.	Final inside view. Outlet at top, air inlet at bottom. Seems to be leak-free, no cold air when cloudy or dark. Next afternoon the sun shone on it, and it pumped out heat well even on the maximum fan setting!